LIMA THE CITY OF KINGS

The first destination for the travellers to PERU is Lima, its capital city and center of South America during the colonial times when it was called the City of Kings. Here you will discover its friendly and lively people, rich culture and superb food. Lima is a metropoli of changes, place of contrasts and show case of all Peru. Once called the Garden City, Lima is a city where you will find space and time for doing everything. Being a neversleeping metropoli, its nightlife is full of fun and joy, and as choices are wide, contact with nature is possible at one or two hours of distance!

Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro on January 18, 1535. Near a valley (the river Rímac) formed by beautiful forests and a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, it was an unequal and strategical place in that moment to be the Spanish colony centre. Its location and wealth attracted numerous merchants and pirates that attacked and robbed Lima during the 16th and 17th centuries.

The Plaza Mayor (Main Square) was the scenery for the Independence Declaration on July 28, 1821 and it marked the beginning of the end of the Spanish colonial rule in Peru and South America. It is also the landmark and central point of all the area known as "Damero de Pizarro" (Pizarro's Square), which has been classified as a "Cultural Heritage of Humankind" since 1992.

Compared to other South American capital cities, Lima has an stable and humid weather. In summer (Dec-Mar), sun is strong, clear sky and an average temperature of 26°C. The rest of the year, the sky becomes grey, drizzle but never rain and a winter of 12°C in average (Jun-Sep). From September, the weather gets warmer and mild. In summer, limeños escape to the southern beaches (20 to 50km). In autumn and winter, people goes in search of sun to the countrysides of Chosica, Canta and Cieneguilla (in the valleys of rivers Rímac, Chillón and Lurín respectively), 30 to 60 km east of Lima, near the Andes slopes.

Churches and Religious Buildings In central Lima there are more than 25 churches with historical value. This is a small reference of the most important ones.

The Cathedral remains in the same place where it was originally built, but have been rebuilt after some earthquakes (latest in 1746). It have interesting works of wood-carving in the choir stalls. The altars are finely covered with silver. In the walls, you can appreciate the original Spanish mosaics with the inscriptions of Pizarro and the coat of arms of Lima. There is a Museo de Arte Religioso at the back. In a chapel (right hand from entrance) lies the coffin and remains of F. Pizarro, the founder of Lima. Entry fee: S/. 5.

Notable for its baroque architecture and catacombs is the church and monastery of San Francisco, in the corner of Jr. Ancash and Jr. Lampa. Built in the 17th century, this church has cloisters with the famous Sevillian tiles, a good an old library with some rarities, José de Rivera's paintings, a "hidden" (not often seen) museum of religious art and the well-visited catacombs (under all the religious complex), which are said to contain the remains of 70,000-90,000 people. Is preferable to take the guided tours available there (also in English). Entry fee.San Pedro is a Jesuit's church built in the 17th century and represents a good example of the early colonial architecture in Lima. It is the only one church which have three main doors, apart from the Cathedral.

This matter generated a problem in the Colony, because the cathedral was the unique church that had to have three entrances and the authorities understood it as a defiance. The altars, wood-carved choir and the glazed tilework are worth seeing. This church was also a burial place for the majority of the Viceroys. There is a small and interesting chapel at the right side. In one of its towers you can see the old bell called "La Abuelita" (the grandma') which rang for the first time in 1590 and was the "official" sound in the Independence's Declaration (1821). San Pedro is located in the corner of Jr. Ucayali and Jr. Azángaro.

Santo Domingo church was built between 1540-99 and remains in the same place where Pizarro granted to Dominican friar Valverde. It is one of the religious jewels of colonial Lima. Inside it we can find the remains of Santa Rosa de Lima and San Martín de Porres (America's first black saint). Nice and peaceful cloisters. Near the altar there is an alabaster statue of St. Rose that was presented by Pope Clemente in 1669. Outside, glance the Angel Gabriel statue at the top of the sole tower, the other was destroyed during a battle held in the past century. First block of Jr. Camaná, one block from the Plaza Mayor. Entry fee. 

Two important places for the worshipers are the Santuario de Santa Rosa de Lima and Las Nazarenas church. The Santuario de Sta. Rosa (the first New World's saint) is crowded every 30th of August, her day, by thousands of faithful followers who write letters (in search of a miracle) and throw them in the old well. There is a garden with an hermitage built by her (17th century), where she refuged for praying, self-punishment and meditation. The church of Las Nazarenas is the starting point of one of the most biggest processions in the world (every October). The image of Señor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles) framed in gold and silver, is venerated by millions in Peru and other countries. He is also called "The Purple Christ" and his procession is a big feast in Lima, which for a month changes a lot. This painting (Christ Crucified) was originally made by a black slave in 1655 and resisted for centuries to earthquakes and damages. The church is located in the original place were the painting was made. Av. Tacna, 4th block.

In Jirón de la Unión, corner with Jr. Miró Quesada, there is the church where the first mass was said in 1534. La Merced church, has a fine and decorated front and its interior houses stalls of several venerated saints. The cloisters are interesting to give a visit. Virgin of La Merced is declared as the Marshal of the Peruvian Army.

Convento de Los Descalzos is a Franciscan religious complex located at the end of the colonial Alameda de los Descalzos (descalzos=barefeet) in the old and traditional district of Rímac. There is a collection of 300 paintings belonging to the Cusco, Quito and Lima schools. Through a good guided (45min) tour in Spanish is possible to visit the infirmary, the refectory, the farmacy, the friars' cells and the two old chapels. Entrance fee.

Other interesting churches are: San Agustín, with its impressive churrigueresque style facade and the surprising carved sculpture of "The Death" made by Baltázar Gavilán (corner of Jr. Ica and Jr. Camaná); Santo Tomás, in the corner of Jr. Junín and Jr. Andahuaylas, it is said to have the only circular cloister in the world (apart from Vaticano's church).

MIRAFLORES

Every day, the sky of Miraflores is colored by the flight of the parasailing, show that very few cities of the world have the privilege of enjoying.  From the Antonio Raimondi’s Park, beside the park “Del Amor” (that has the sculpture of the Peruvian artist Delfin called “El Beso” – The Kiss -, and where it is habitual to find the couples of just married that use to go for a walk to be photographed), the visitors watch them flying with the same softness that the gulls. Those that over fly for the cliffs of Miraflores will enjoy magnificent views of the beautiful bay in all its extension, the San Lorenzo’s island, they follow the beaches of the “Costa Verde” where it is common to see the surfers making twirls, the lighthouse, the waves that break in the most romantic restaurant “La Rosa Nautica” which is built at the end of a dock, then the  barranquinas and chorrillanas buildings, the hillside of the “Morro Solar”, the Yacht Club of Lima, the long pier where big and elegant buildings prevail with view to the sea, the Miraflores’s Casino, Larcomar and the Hotel Marriot is some of the attractiveness of Miraflores, the tourist district of Lima for its variety of services, their 40 hotels among 3 and 5 five stars, 60 restaurants, business districts parks, cinemas, art galleries, a score of coffees bar, discotheques, pubs, and even the huaca Pucllana, a beautiful place museum, where its restaurant has a good menu of novoandina cuisine. 

Larcomar is a shopping and entertainment centre, which has a privileged location on the seafront. It has a selection of restaurants, ice-cream parlours, and shops selling accessories, books and gifts as well as a multiplex cinema, bowling alley.

Lima is not really known for its theatre, but from time to time there are a few interesting plays and shows. For those who enjoy light comedy, one of the oldest and best-known comedy theatres is the Teatro Marsano in Miraflores. The theatre at the Centro Cultural de la Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú stages a varied repertoire of works from a diverse range of dance and theatre companies, usually of a very high standard. Teatro Larco has a fine reputation, and throughout the year presents both contemporary and classical plays.

Miraflores is a great choice to have a good time. El Parque Central was rebuilt in the early '90s and since then has become the ideal place to go for a stroll. The park has an amphitheatre where you can enjoy free shows, which start in the early afternoons, and may be music, theatre, mime or dance. Also to be found in the park is the Rotonda de los Artesanos, where you will find on show and for sale all types of goods including antiques.

Miraflores is without a doubt the area with the most commercial activity and where tourists generally head to. Filled with shopping malls, cinemas, hotels, it boasts the highest concentration of cafes in Lima. Located along a sloping shoreline, its surrounding promenade leads to the beaches and parks along with the new shopping complex, Larcomar

BARRANCO

The well-known district of Barranco is located, along with Chorrillos, at the southern tip of Lima Bay, along the shoreline. The Avenida Bolognesi is the dividing line between the two different faces of this city: the historic residential area and the other a bustling working class area.

The historic district lies between Avenida Bolognesi and the malecón (quayside), where mid-19th century streets, parks and gardens can be enjoyed. Follow the seafront southward to the beaches lining the coast, to arrive at the Bajada de los Baños (Slopes of the Baths), a romantic location to savour typical local dishes, or enjoy a drink while gazing out over a beautiful ocean view.

What was once the number one beach resort in Lima is now a bohemian barrio par excellence—preferred by artists, writers and lovers for its serenity and idyllic atmosphere. The area has flourished again, over the last 15 years and its parks and republican-style mansions have regained past splendour. Cross the Puente de los Suspiros to the scenic pier overlooking the Pacific ocean. Catch a musical or cultural performance in one of the barrio's plazas, stroll along the boulevard and stop in at one of the many bars, such as La Noche.

The Parque Municipal is found just past this area. Retaining the aristocratic airs of yesteryear, most of Barranco's cafes, restaurants, bars and pubs—housed in mansions—are clustered around this plaza. Like the traditional Bar Juanito, most attract the local bohemians, artists and those who come to Barranco for a good time out.

The bohemian atmosphere is in Barranco. Much of their architecture, streets and parks still speak about their aristocratic past, since it was the spa in fashion of the Limean of olden times. Today is the night encounter point of the young people of the city, the center is the boulevard and from there it begins a singular tour of bars, discos, cultural centers, museums and art galleries. Visit the old “Puente de los Suspiros”, the favorite corner of lovers where at sunset their atmosphere is flooded of a poetic atmosphere. 

SAN ISIDRO

Originally, this district was an upper class residential area where the scenic neighbourhoods are arranged around attractive parks of large, stately trees, such as Olivar de San Isidro, and El Club de Golf. Today the area is best described as a shopping and financial district where streets such as Calle Miguel Dasso provide respite from the bustle in the many cafes ideal for quiet conversation, delicatessens for a quick bite or even a Turkish bath. The Ovalo Gutierrez district is also alive with shops, cafes, and other activities and is especially popular among those who enjoy savouring the finer foods in life.

The park “El Olivar” is a good point to begin to know the district of San Isidro, where many of its neighbors believe that the best in its district is here to the shade of the olive trees. But there is more: residential neighborhoods, beautiful parks, the Golf Club, modern buildings, financial centers, 9 hotels of 5 stars, 80 restaurants, 22 night centers, commercial centers and boutiques with the lastest fashion, it transforms this part of Lima into an entire managerial emporium. 

SURCO

The tradition and the modernity are in the district of Surco, where the Main Square and their church are colonial relics that date of the XVI century. In contrast, the modern constructions of their residential neighborhoods their commercial centers as the Jockey Plaza Shopping Center, the Racecourse, their parks, restaurants and cinemas made possible now to speak of this zone being relatively cosmopolitan.

SORROUNDINGS

The Limean ones have multiple options to escape from the city, thanks to the great extension of beaches that surround it, particularly toward the south where  an entire commercial center has been developed with the best restaurants of the city, the most important stores, the fashion discotheques and multiple services for the vacationers that attend the hundred of spas during the summer. Lima also has valleys and mountain areas, where during the winter season in weekends the Limean pass enjoying the nature and welcoming towns and places to practice adventure sports like in Lunahuaná, Pachacamac where a great built ritual center  is located among the centuries II and III A.D., Lurín, Azpitía in the south, and toward the north to visit Huaral, Huacho, the “Lomas de Lachay”  where due to an exceptional ecosystem the hills before desert, shortly grasses and soft-leafed plants appear and in a couple of weeks everywhere is covered of plants and the animals drink water of the clouds between June and November.  Another alternatives also exists toward the central mountain that begins from Chosica toward the department of Junín with multiple routes and full places of nature and beautiful landscapes. 

LIMA THE GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL OF THE AMERICAS

One of Lima's main attractions is its delicious cooking; quality food is found everywhere and it is not necessary to only go to the most expensive restaurants to enjoy a good meal. Lima's cuisine has managed to incorporate many influences and has made many traditions of its own. Its cuisine is exemplified by a huge diversity: Native American, Spanish, Chinese, Italian, Arab, African and a great variety of flavours from other parts of Peru.

To sample the unique taste of exquisite traditional food, choose from well-seasoned dishes like the delicious Ají de Gallina (shredded chicken in spicy cream sauce), Rocoto Relleno (stuffed Peruvian hot pepper), Lomo Saltado (stir-fried beef with rice and chips) or Carapulcra (sun-dried potato stew). The renown Pisco Sour, prepared with pisco (a potent spirit distilled from grapes), lemon juice, sugar and egg-white is very popular, as is the refreshing drink made from boiled purple maize, the Chicha Morada.

The fertile waters of the Peruvian Sea boast one of the greatest diversities of fish and shellfish in the world. Consequently, the country has developed a whole range of delicious fresh dishes, such as the celebrated Cebiche de Pescado (fish in lemon-juice marinade) or Cebiche Mixto (fish and shellfish marinade).

Despite the wide range of choice in Lima's many restaurants, ceviche is surely number one on the list of dishes you must get to know, not only because it happens to be the "Peruvian national dish", but because of its unparalelled delicious taste. With the increasing interest in the Peruvian cuisine, ceviche is quickly making its way onto tables all over the world. But if you want to enjoy the real thing, don't miss it during your stay here in ceviche's Mecca. There is at least one cevichería in every neighbourhood, so it won't be hard to find one. Moreover, most criollo restaurants include ceviche on their menus; indeed, many restaurants do, even the more upscale nouveau-cuisine.

In addition, there are a variety of main courses to choose from, such as Escabeche de Pescado (fried fish with onions), the ever-present Arroz con Mariscos (shellfish and rice) or Chicharrones de Pescado y Calamares (batter-fried fish and squid). Along with restaurants specialising in seafood, there is the well-known cebicherías throughout the city. However, the Chorrillos district is one of the best known for traditional cebicherías like Sonia, the classic Canta Rana in Barranco, and El Francesco in Miraflores. Alfresco is one of the best-known chains of seafood restaurants in the city.

The Costa Verde restaurant on the Miraflores shoreline offers a spectacular Sunday buffet set with a wide range of dishes. Peruvian style Charcoal-grilled chicken, a popular dish, is popularly served throughout the city and well worth tasting. Both Pardo’s Chicken and Norky’s are excellent branches for this platter, and you can find them in any neighborhood. Also, the chain Mediterráneo Chicken has branches all over town; and in Chaclacayo, on the outskirts of Lima, the legendary Granja Azul can still be found.

Another must goes to Asian cuisine, both Chinese and Japanese, which predictably, have a strong Peruvian influence. Chifas -that is, Chinese restaurants-, which can be counted by the hundreds if not thousands, are usually down-to-earth neighbourhood eateries, offering a fare rich in seafood and chicken. Japanese restaurants, on the contrary, are less widespread, and more upscale and expensive. Their forte is, of course, a year-round supply of the freshest and most variegated seafood.

Be careful: Peruvian food tend to be spicy and heavy. Try it with method and ask if any dish is "picante" (spicy), and if you are not fond of that, avoid it since it may be really picante. A full meal may be really heavy and cause problems even if it's perfectly nice and well prepared with fresh ingredients.

For desserts, Lima's cuisine offers some quite succulent alternatives some of the more widely known include: Suspiro a la Limeña (a creamy, sweet, lemon meringue with a delicate name: Limeñan Sighs), Mazamorra Morada (made from purple maize), Arroz Zambito (rice pudding with brown sugar), Arroz Con Leche (rice pudding), Pie de Limón (lemon meringue pie), Cheesecake de Saúco (a native Andean fruit), Huevos Chimbos (a type of flan with a caramel and triple-sec coating), higos rellenos con manjar blanco (figs stuffed with blancmange), Mousse de Lúcuma, Picarones (local variety of doughnut). Try these desserts at Las Mesitas in Barranco, and some of the least expensive carretillas (food carts) on Alameda Chabuca Granda, and also find them in any restaurants or Cafeterias.

 (See next : recommended Restaurants)

ANOTHER HIGHLIGHTS

•       Huaca Pucllana  dates back to 200-700 AD. Located in Miraflores and made from small handmade, sun-dried brick, this huge construction is 22 meters high. It is divided into two areas, for ceremonial and administrative ends. Guided tours include a visit through the museum, the small park with native flora and fauna and the craftsmen's house where handicrafts are on exhibit and for sale. Admission is 5 soles for adults. There is also an eponymous restaurant on the site itself, which, though expensive, offers stunning views of the complex, particularly at night, when it's floodlit.

-        Larcomar. It's like a mall, where you can eat, shop, go to the cinema, it has two nice discotecs for the night. The discotecs are open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and in summer (January and February) also Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Larcomar's principal attraction is its location. It is in Miraflores, in a high hill where you can see the beach while eating or just walking. Best to visit during the sunset.

-        Museo de la Nacion -  Peru's National Museum is one of the most remarkable in the country and is without doubt worth visiting. It is a must for all travellers who wish to gain an understanding of Peru. On three levels the visitor will be guided through the history of the cultures from the very beginning to the arrival of the spanish in the Inca period. Most impresive is the replica of the tomb of the Lord of Sipán complete with original burrial objects.

Opening hours: Tue to Sun 9 am to 5 pm.

Address: Avenida Javier Prado Oeste 2466, district San Borja.

•       Museo Larco Herrera - showcases remarkable chronological galleries providing an excellent overview on 3000 years of development of Peruvian pre-Columbian history. Located in a unique vice-royal mansion of the 18th century built over a 7th century pre-Columbian pyramid, is surrounded by beautiful gardens, in Pueblo Libre borough. Popular thanks to its ample collection of erotic pottery from the Mochica culture and the Gold & Jewelry of Ancient Peru exhibition.

•       Museo de Oro del Perú, Alonso de Molina 1100, Monterrico. Overrated. Peru's gold museum contains a huge collection of gaudy, gold works. Not the best place to learn about Peruvian precolumbian cultures. A large part of a Peruvian 20,000-piece collection of gold is fake, according to the Peru's consumer protection agency.

•       Lima offers inside the metropolitan area, many outdoor activities such as Paragliding and Hangliding that can be done in a Tandem flight over Miraflores with AeroXtreme [10], PeryFly [11] or flying by your own doing a full course or a one day course with a paragliding school like Infinity Paragliding School [12] or Parapente Paragliding Peru [13]. Most of the flights are done in one of the cliff edge sides of Miraflores, next to Parque del Amor.

•       Other entertaining and interesting option are the Bike Tours through the best spots of the city such as Barranco, San isidro, Miraflores, Chorrillos and the Downtown area. Companies like Bike Tours of Lima [14] organize guided bicycle tours in english or spanish at reasonable prices. Also there is a possibility to rent a bike for hours or days to do your own bike trip.

•       Cruise To Islas Palomino (Palomino Islands) are located at short distance from the port of Lima, Callao. These small islands are inhabited by small colonies of sea lions, Peruvian boobies and Guanay cormorants. This is a reasonable alternative excursion to famous Ballestas Islands in Paracas if you are spending some days in Lima and can not travel south to Pisco and Paracas, and also if you want to swim with the sea lions. (In Ballestas that is forbidden.)

•       Fountain Park of the Reserve (Parque de la Reserva), Miraflores District, Lima, Peru - this fountain park is one of the largest in South America, holding a Guinness World Record for the highest public fountain in the world, at over 80m tall. With 13 fountains in total one could spend several hours here walking around and taking pictures. Best time to go is right at sunset and stay till dark to see all the lights in full effect in each one of the fountains. They also have a laser show at the Fuente de la Fantasia fountain that last apx 30 min (a must see!). S/. 4.00.

-        Barranco is a neighborhood south of Miraflores with many clubs and cafes, popular among college students in Lima. It's the party heart of town, where you can find most Peñas, music clubs that offer folkloric music shows, in particular Afro Peruvian and Criollo gigs. On the weekends, Barranco has "A Taste of Barranco" food festival. Outdoor tables are filled with every dish they serve, the price is very reasonable too. Local musicians play and it's a very popular place to be. For live music, Barranco is also good. Some of the best clubs for rock music include 6 places within a few blocks.

-        Pedro De Osma Museum -  Nestled within a historic mansion, this museum has a lot to offer its visitors. Step into the Palacio de Osma and you will find art in all forms, be it linen cloth, wood or metal; glass and leather have not been left out either! And these centuries-old paintings hail from places as far as Italy, Bolivia, Quito, Mexico, and Germany. The gallery hosts temporary exhibitions also. Check the website for more details  www.museopedrodeosma.org

-        Puente De Los Suspiros - Built in the late 1800s, this Bridge of Sighs is a landmark in the Barranco district, so called for the lovers who steal away here. It  crosses over the winding waters that run down to the beach, joining the streets of Ayacucho and La Ermita on either side of the high riverbanks. The area has quality eateries and food vendors gather here to sell typical local food at affordable prices.

-        In the district of today’s San Isidro you will find an important archaeological complex named the ‘Huaca Huallamarca’ or also known as ‘Pan de Azúcar’ (Sugar Bread). Intensive investigations revealed three main occupation periods of the huaca: before and during the Lima Culture (around 200 BC to 700 AD) by ancient ‘Hualla’ settlers from the Lima valley, ‘Ishma’ (around the 11th century) and Incas (15th and 16th century).

-        Calesas - to evoke the Lima of old, simply get on one of these beautiful horse-drawn carriages which will allow you to enjoy a relaxing tour around the Plaza Major. The carriages are a tourist attraction in themselves and many people prefer just to take photographs of them, with the architectural splendors around the Plaza in the background. There are eight carriages in total, although normally only three are used at any one time. This is a perfect mean of transportation in order sightseeing the city while taking pictures.

•       The Pisco Sour is the national drink of Peru, made with Pisco, a brandy made of grapes. It is highly recommended that all adult visitors to Peru try this drink at least once before exiting the country. Visitors might be amused to learn that a controversy exists between Peru and its neighbor Chile over whose country really created the Pisco Sour, although the Chilean and Peruvian recipes are somewhat different (Chilean people like to argue that Pisco is a Peruvian spirit while the Pisco Sour recipe comes from Chile, when in fact both the main ingredient and the drink were created in Peru). Variations include Maracuya Sour and Coca Sour and are offered in several bars around town.

GALLERIES

Lima has an interesting stable of artists and every two years the Bienal de Arte is held when various galleries and large buildings in the centre of Lima open to the general public with exhibitions of works by Peruvian and foreign artists.

The most popular galleries include the Galería de la Municipalidad de Miraflores and Galería Forum, which can both be found in Miraflores. In the district of Barranco you can find the Praxis Gallery and in San Isidro there are always interesting exhibitions in the Galería Cecilia González and in the Centro Cultural de la Universidad Católica.

PEÑAS AND SALSÓDROMOS

Peru is very rich culturally, in dance, music and tradition. Las Peñas are folk clubs to gather together to the rhythms of Criolla (Creole) or traditional music. Lima has several Peñas such as the well-known Sachún in the Magdalena district, and El Eslabón in San Borja, where they also stage Folkloric Ballets like Así es Mi Perú (That's My Peru), as well as some more tourist traps such as Manos Morenas, offering dining, situated in Barranco.

The Peña folklórica held at Brisas del Titicaca affords unforgettable performances of Andean song and dance—especially from the Puna district. The lively ambience invites all to join in along with the cast of professional performers. It is without a doubt the best spot in town of its kind. No video cameras are allowed, still cameras permitted.

A stop over at a Salsódromo in order to be able to dance salsa, meringues, or any other variation of Afro-Latin-Caribbean music is a must. These venues specialise in these musical styles and normally showcase numerous live bands, which, in most cases, play until the early hours. The best-known Salsadromes are Bertolotto in San Miguel, and the popular Kimbara and Tropical Plaza in La Victoria.